Beaufort

* Beaufort, SC. *

A three-night stay on Lady’s Island, quickly turned to one week, and then 9 days with the prediction of heavy winds and rain, and a holiday weekend. Having no set agenda, it was an easy pivot to extend our stay and enjoy our time in Beaufort County. When we left Melbourne on the first of May, we agreed we would go North and take our time enjoying the ports along the way. We had six months to cruise possibly as far North as the Chesapeake and then return to Melbourne for the winter. So far, we have taken that to heart and we’re enjoying all the ports we have visited and not planning out more than a day to two. Four weeks in and we’ve cruised just over 400 miles.

The winds along the Carolina coast were kicking up and being pushed out later in the week. Each day a little further. Lady’s Island was the perfect spot to weather the storm with a great weekly rate and nice amenities. We embraced the southern hospitality, explored by bike, met new friends and old friends, ate our way through Beaufort, and had a wonderful relaxing week.

As we made our approach Lady’s Island and the marina, we navigated through a swing bridge. We didn’t need it to open to get though as it was showing 32’ on the boards. However, we took the opportunity to follow a sailboat through the open bridge. Tasha asked the captain to slow so she could record the closing, the captain was struggling to hold the Now or Never in the channel as the currents were sucking us towards the bridge. The depth finder alarm was going off (what’s new!), and it made for another exciting entrance to port.

Beaufort County is rich in history and is the second oldest city in South Carolina. Three hundred and four acres of the city are designated National Historic Landmarks. Established over 500 years ago, the Spanish settlement at Santa Elena on Parris Island was before St. Augustine and Jamestown, and 51 years before the pilgrims landed at Plymouth Rock.

During the civil war, the Northern troops in a seaborne assault secured Beaufort and the surrounding area for the Union. It was quickly realized that medical means brought along fell short of meeting the means for the troops. Necessity being the mother of invention, homes abandoned by their owners were commandeered as hospitals and reside in the Historic Landmark area. Thousands of soldiers and freed slaves, called “contrabands” were treated in these hospitals. Because some did not survive, there is the medical side story of the Civil War in Beaufort, called “Sorrow by the Sea”.

Historic Beaufort

The historic city has maintained its antebellum architecture and smalltown atmosphere. Beaufort is home to about 25 percent of the marshlands on the entire coast of the United States.

We spent the first day on our bikes wandering the historic streets, absorbing the history, enjoying the waterfront, and eating a great meal. We had intended to repeat the visit to the historic district, but the weather impeded our return.

The historic area as well as a great deal of Beaufort is adorned with Live Oak trees, Spanish moss, and touts a great view of the Beaufort River. We were treated to some beautiful sunsets.

Several movies were filmed in Beaufort including a great deal of Forest Gump and the Big Chill. You can see Forest running across the Bridge Memorial Swing Bridge in the movie. One of the houses commandeered by the Union for a hospital was also the backdrop house n the Big Chill. Everywhere you look has beautiful southern charm.

Our friends on Blue Phoenix had told us to check out the hardware store near the marina. Who knew a trip to the hardware store could be so pleasurable. This was not your average hardware store. Locally owned and operated for over 60 years with several locations Bob Gray, the 96-year-old owner has created a wonderful shopping experience. Mr. Gray was in the store greeting and assisting customers. Hardware to home goods, they had a great selection! We visited a couple times and left with things we never knew we needed!

We ate our way through Beaufort, something we’re very good at. Every meal was terrific! We indulged in the fare of the Lowcountry, fresh fish caught the same day, farm to table salads, and the bargain $5 cheeseburger and $5 pork chop nights at the local Fillin’ Station!

We had our own tribe of loopers who partook in Thursday pork chop night with us, like our chicken night at home! We were invited back to a 4-story home that overlooks the marina, marsh, and river (photo taken from 4^th floor!). What a spectacular view and wonderful evening with a group of boaters.

Eating our way through Beaufort on this long stop was not good for our waistlines, but the food was superb and had to be sampled. The three restaurants of note were Dockside, located at the marina, Lowcountry Produce Market & Café, in downtown Beaufort, and a dive bar honorable mention, the Fillin’ Station by the marina.

Staying put for over a week, gave us the opportunity to catch up with a couple of projects, routine maintenance, and fix a shower pump switch that just went out. The Captain has many talents and wedging himself in tight, peculiar places on the boat is one of them. The shower pump switch included dismantling the master stateroom and just about standing on his head to access an area he then couldn’t see to work on. We also worked on the wall vinyl, with an almost 30-year-old boat, it was sagging a bit, so Dave dismantled the side wall bulkhead and supports, removed tons of staples, stretched the vinyl and re-stapled.

As predicted, the wind and rain showed up late week. Strong winds from the Northeast kept us on board for the better part of two days. It was chilly and damp and we broke out the heater for the aft deck and made chicken vegetable soup. The warm soup hit the spot while we watched from the aft deck.

We love a place that celebrates the dogs!

We could get used to the island life here in Beaufort, the beauty, charm, small town feel, wonderful people, and the low key, quaint marina, but it is time to journey north and discover more of our wonderful country. We can only imagine the beauty of the island and area 67 years ago when Tasha’s parents lived on Lady’s Island.

Cheers!  David, Tasha,  

                  & Remy forever in our hearts!

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