Cool Cruising on Lake Huron

** Port Austin, MI to Mackinac Island, MI **

Our journey continues north, and we are waiting on summer to make its grand entrance to the Great Lakes. Fifties and sixties and lots of wind are the norm in our neck of the woods as well as jackets and down vests. And continuing north hasn’t been helpful in the endeavor of finding summer.

Now or Never route from Port Austin to Mackinac Island

Leaving Port Austin was much less eventful than our arrival and the conditions were pretty close to perfect as we cut across Saginaw Bay with sunshine and blue skies. These are the days.

Lake Huron

Heading to East Tawas, a beach town we had never heard of, we found a harbor with quite a few boats and activity. This place had good vibes, and we were ready to be amongst people even if it was a chilly 50 degrees. Not very good for beach days. East Tawas was a wonderful surprise; we welcomed the change of pace. We were scheduled to stay one night and quickly added two more.

Good morning Lake Huron!

First on our agenda was a 5 mile bike ride to the Tawas Point Lighthouses (there are two). A great ride along a peninsula with Tawas Bay on our starboard and Lake Huron on our port. Past old time cottages and new big houses, a state campground, and a beautiful state park. We arrived just in time for the last tour of the newer lighthouse and the 85 steps up the spiral staircase to the top. It was a breathtaking view of the bay and the lake. The original lighthouse was built in 1852 at the end of the Point and stood 45 feet tall and it is not open to visitors. However, the prevailing northeast winds continuously reshaped the lengthened the point and by 1873 the end of the Point was almost a mile from the 1852 lighthouse. In 1874 a large schooner ran aground and that instigated the current lighthouse being built in 1876. It stands 67 feet tall and has a 1 ½ story Keeper’s dwelling attached.

Tawas Point Lighthouse

We learned from our volunteer lightkeepers that Michigan has a program which volunteers work and live at the lighthouses for 1-2 week stints. In exchange for a few hours a day as tour guides, the keepers reside at the lighthouse during their gig. There is an application process, and hundreds apply each year for the couple dozen locations. The Tawas Point Lighthouse Keeper program began in 2008 with teams of 4 for each session. Who wants to apply with our crew to be lightkeepers at a Michigan lighthouse?

East Tawas, MI

Our three night stay went quickly with the seemingly abundance of things to do and people to watch (not really but so compared to everywhere else we’ve been). On one bike ride, David stopped abruptly. On the side of the road attached to a fence, an arrow sign reading Columbus Indiana 458 mi. Wow! Tasha walked up the overgrown wooded drive to see if there was a house so she of course could introduce us to them, however, the property was just an empty lot. How crazy to be on a back street on Lake Huron 458 miles from home and see a sign for our hometown. We would have loved to have met the owner.

Only 458 miles to home

We would cruise 37 miles to Harrisville, the land of nothing. Not only was the marina empty, but the village was also a ghost town. They had a beautiful marina and the highest dock rates thus far, but nothing else. Instead of our typical immersing ourselves in the community, we used the evening to update our cruising plan and change our course with a big diversion westward at the top of the mitten. We had time to hit two ports (long cruising days) along the Michigan shore before crossing over to Mackinac Island. We would enjoy a two night stay on the island then motor to the St. Mary’s River before the winds would really crank up and blow. The St. Mary’s River would lead us to Lake Superior. Being early season and the cool temperatures (Tasha has not had shorts on yet), we were able to secure last minute dockage at Mackinac Island. This plan would take us further west than originally planned at this point but would alleviate the rat race for a slip and craziness on Mackinac during busy July.

Harrisville, MI

The following day our cruise 55 miles over six hours to Presque Isle (pronounced presskeel). It was a miserable cruise as hundreds of small flies inundated Now or Never. Hundreds! Tasha had the fly spray out, and both of us had fly swatters in hand. It reminded us of our travels through the low country along the Georgia and South Carolina though this time they weren’t biting. Again, we arrived at an empty marina. First duty was to wash the boat and shop vac the inside to dispose of the flies, then onto some fun.

Presque Isle – Old/Small Lighthouse

Presque Isle boasts having most beautiful natural harbor on Lake Huron and is home to about 600 residents with just over 6 miles of land, much of it state park. The island is located at the top of the pointer finger on the Michigan mitten. There were a handful of commercial fishing boats in the harbor and us. We again would be alone for the night.

Two lighthouses and a general store occupy the island near the marina. We headed to the general store and borrowed two loaner bikes for our excursion to the lighthouses (so much easier than lugging ours down for the 2.5 mile ride).

Presque Isle, MI – New/Big Lighthouse

We started with the closest lighthouse which was the original. Built in 1840, it was 30 feet tall with 78 steps to the lens, being much taller was designed to better serve as a coastal light keeping mariners safe today.

Presque Isle, MI

We biked throughout the state park and hiked along the beach. A great day just to be outside and enjoy the beauty of Michigan. It really is a beautiful state.We’ve seen a lot of wildlife on this trip, but this day was a first, a porcupine just casually walking down the road between the two lighthouses. He didn’t seem too bothered by us, raised his quills a bit, and kept truckin’ as we rode by.

Mr. Porcupine waddling down the road

We left Presque Isle early; the captain had pulled power and started to maneuver lines before the first mate was out of bed. Weather would be changing late morning, and we were trying to tie up in Cheboygan before the wind kicked up. Captain Dave powered up our Cummins diesels and away we went. We passed both the lighthouses we had climbed the day prior and then made our turn west in an area referred to as shipwreck alley. There is something a bit disturbing traveling an area called shipwreck alley. We rounded the top of Michigan and began our run in the Straits of Mackinac The winds began to howl, and the waves turned to white caps, but we were closing in on Cheboygan. We made the 60 miles voyage in just under five hours. Thankful to make it in to a protected harbor on the river.

It was Cheboygan Harbor where we finally ran into our first loopers, albeit gold loopers, two vessels that we had met in our first 6 months of looping (2021 – one on the Tennessee River and the other Florida). What are the odds? Not only was it good to see them again they offered good intel on our trip north to Lake Superior.

Cheboygan, MI

A day can make a big difference. We enjoyed a beautiful, calm, 16-mile run to Mackinac Island. We saw our first pleasure craft on the water and just beyond them the Mighty Mackinac Bridge. We first saw the bridge about 9 miles out as it was cloudy and hazy. We weren’t paying much attention and boom, there it was! A sight to behold. And then the Grand Hotel came into view – stunning!

Mackinac in Sight

On the docks of Mackinac, we met up with the crew of Still Waters, a family of five, we first met late last summer in Tobermory, Ontario. They were on their maiden voyage last August cruising home to Cheboygan before they start their loop later this summer. We had hoped to meet up with them in Cheboygan, then learned they were at Mackinac Island but leaving prior to our arrival. Last minute they extended their stay on the island, and we ended up docked a few slips away. It was great to spend time with the McGill family and share our stories, theirs’s a family of 5 + two pups who have been traveling the country in a RV prior to planning this great loop adventure. This looper community continues to amaze us by the connections you make and reconnecting somewhere else along the journey. We sure hope we see the McGill’s this summer/ fall along the Lake Michigan or heading down the rivers.

Still Waters Crew

We were thankful to have our bikes and save the $98/day rental rate each. We began with a ride around the island. 8.2 miles. A beautiful path along the shore and very remote on the north side of the island. Along the route we stopped to climb the 207 steps to Arch Rock (we’re getting good with these steps!). The most famous of the rock formations on the island, this arch towers above the water 140 feet and is more than fifty feet wide. We could have biked there, but the captain likes to get his steps in.

Arched Rock

The harbor docks are just below Fort Mackinac and we were reminded of the proximity as the cannons fired multiple times throughout the day and early evening, keeping us on our toes! Fort Mackinac was founded during the American Revolution. Believing Fort Michilimackinac, at what now is Mackinac City, was too vulnerable to American attack, the British moved the fort to Mackinac Island in 1780. Americans took control of the fort in 1796 and in July of 1812, the British captured the fort in the first land engagement of the War of 1812 in the nation. It was returned to the United States after the war. The fort remained active until 1895.

Fort Mackinac

Biking was awesome unless you got behind the horses, you don’t want to do that. On day two we took to the interior of the island and rode trail after trail dodging those road apples. The inside of the island is nature driven and proved to be void of much signage. The trails and intersections all looked the same and we found ourselves pedaling by the Arch Rock three different times. Had we wanted to find it, we never would have, but we   found beautiful terrain of the woods and ravines of the island. Stunning landscape at every turn and hill.

Sights

Finally finding our way to the Grand Hotel, it sure lives up to all the hype, and the view of Lake Huron is spectacular from the big white columned porch.

The Grand Hotel Early Morning

We used the DASH door discount and rocked away in the famous white rockers as we enjoyed a beer and a bite on the front porch. While there were plenty people around, it was not crowded and that was very nice. Half of the rockers were waiting for someone to sit and enjoy the island life. With weekly rates at $650 per night and weekend rates of $1000+, we were thrilled with the bring your own quarters, $85 rate at the marina. A bargain! (if you don’t include the diesel to get there!)

The Grand Hotel

We had a little bit of rain and fog but that certainly didn’t stop us from enjoying the island. On our final morning, we took a leisurely stroll to breakfast while being fascinated by watching the island operate before the tour boats started to come in. All deliveries by horse and wagon including Amazon, ice cream, and goods for the restaurants and stores all delivered to the front steps. Some items sat on the porch for hours before the staff arrived. No one bothered a thing. We were also happily surprised that bikes were not locked, parked two and three deep on the main drag, you just left them, did your thing and came right back to where they were to cruise on. The quiet island nights and mornings are what we really enjoyed.

Morning Delivery!

We would reluctantly cast off our lines and head northeast leaving the island oasis behind. It was a nice change of pace. We headed to the remote upper peninsula town of DeTour Village, MI. This is the start of our migration to the Soo and our opportunity to dip the bow of Now or Never in Lake Superior waters. We’ll then enter Canada and cruise the North Channel for a few weeks. This day was a perfect day to cruise, cool, sunny skies, winds about 5 mph, and waves less than a foot. Why can’t all cruising days be like this?!

A Grand Day on the Water by Mackinac Island!

Our time on Lake Huron is dwindling and we’re finally getting into the rhythm of cruising again, but the weather has been odd. In our time on board, we’ve seen the 70’s just once. Cruising alone with the water to ourselves is something we are not used to. The marinas and ports for the most part have been quiet and empty. An oddity we soon hope will change, but we are headed north, off the beaten path again, so we won’t be holding our breath quite yet.

Cheers!  David, Tasha, 

                  & Remy forever in our hearts!   –   Loop Dog for 1 year and 3357 miles

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Remy on the shores of the Tennesee River