Down the Illinois River We Go!

** Joliet  >  Ottawa  >  Hennepin  >  Peoria  >  Beardstown  >  Hardin  >  Grafton **

We set off on the Illinois River on a gloomy morning, leaving the south side of Chicago with Happy Daze, a fellow looper boat. Our plan: cruise 324 miles, seven ports, before reaching the Mississippi near Grafton, Illinois. Between us and a free wall in Joliet lay 36 miles and one lock.

The south side of Chicago to Grafton – the Illinois River

Halfway through our voyage, just before the lock, another looper joined us – coming down the Chicago River through downtown. We had an extended wait at the lock, long enough to make and eat lunch and float awhile. Eventually, the green light invited us in. After a summer with only two locks under our belts (both at the Soo), this was lock number two of twelve on our route to western Kentucky. Locks aren’t hard, just time-consuming and an interuption to the flow of the day. You’re at the mercy of a system that prioritizes commercial traffic over pleasure boats like us. So, you wait – and if you’re traveling with a group of loopers, you wait for the slowest boat to arrive. For the next 600+ miles or so, we’ll be moving with a fleet of loopers, soaking it all in.

Back to locking through

We arrived in Joliet early afternoon and found the city wall already filling with boats. We slipped in behind Happy Daze and watched as the space filled with a dozen loopers by nightfall. The wall had power, making it a popular free spot by a small park just across the bridge from downtown. Good lighting and a strong police presence added a layer of security, and when winds rolled in the next day, half of us stayed put, exploring the area.

Joliet Wall – Now or Never – 6th boat from either side

We walked across the bridge into town, where a farmers’ market was in full swing. We found a post office – something we haven’t needed in a long time, some impressive Route 66 art – Joliet is gearing up for the 2026 centennial celebration – and a great spot for a late lunch. We even stopped by the tiny casino, just to say we did.

Joliet, IL route 66 celebration

On a side note, after meeting hundreds of dogs along the way, Tasha got her first bite – one of her only bites ever. We were greeting three friendly doodles, you know those tail wagging, head rocking, pick me, pick me pups – when the biggest one chomped down. Luckily, no skin was broken, but it caught Tasha by surprise. The owner seemed unaware. Yet, it certainly won’t stop us from greeting more dogs.

Loopers following Now or Never to the lock where we locked 4 wide

The next morning, eight boats left together just as the sun rose at 6:15 a.m. The first of three locks was only a mile downriver. We made good time, passed through all three smoothly, and covered 45 miles in 7.5 hours, docking at Heritage Harbor Marina in Ottawa. This would be our only marina stop on the Illinois River until Grafton. We enjoyed the full-service marina – courtesy car, watching ducks from the Quacker Deck, dinner with fellow loopers, and a detailed route briefing from the harbor host, who is also a lock master.

Looper dinner and river briefing – crews of River Mist, Y-Knot, State of Grace, & Happy Daze . . . And the Quackerdeck

Our traveling guests, Tim and Janet, joined us to cruise from Ottawa to Peoria with an overnight stop in Hennepin. Since their daughter Lauren is married to our son Nick, this became more than a trip – it was a family reunion afloat.

Cool evening and morning in Ottawa, IL

Fall was whispering its arrival with chilly nights and foggy mornings. We set off with a fleet of loopers and shared the locking experience at Starve Rock Lock, taking in the beautiful river scenery.

Sharing the locks with Tim and Janet

At Hennepin’s Big Bend Marina – room for only four boats- we tied up for the night. We missed the grocery store’s lunch special but found a good meal at a local supper club where Vinny took good care of us. A walk through town led us to the historic Putnam County Courthouse, where Tim shared stories of arguing cases in the same courtroom as Abraham Lincoln. Talk about a walk back in time. We finished the evening dining onboard, sharing the looper experience.

Visit to Hennepin, IL – Putnam County Courthouse

With Tim as our guide, we soaked in local history of the river towns as we meandered down the Illinois River while watching wildlife – deer sipping water on the riverbank, wild turkeys running along the shore, and eagles soaring alongside Now or Never. The weather was perfect: calm waters and sunny skies.

Spotted along hte Illinois River

We docked at a restaurant across the river from Peoria – deep-water marinas here are hard to find. After two nights on board, Tim and Janet headed home and we would meet up with them again the next day.

Docking at Kuchie’s on the River by Peoria, IL

We’ve been incredibly blessed along this journey – by the amazing places we’ve seen, yes, but even more so by the wonderful people we’ve met along the way.

One especially meaningful blessing came over a year ago when we crossed paths with the Bohonek family, Emily, Jordan, Lauren, Reed, and Sherman from Live the Dash. What started as a chance meeting turned into four unforgettable months of cruising together – four months of shared adventure, problem-solving, belly laughs, and yes, even a few tears. From route planning to mealtime to fixing the things we broke (and there were a few!), we lived a truly intertwined life – the highs, the lows, and everything in between. On a trip of a lifetime, made even more special by doing it together.

That bond has only grown stronger with time. We talk regularly, but nothing compares to an in-person reunion. So, imagine our joy and surprise when, when sitting at dock in the middle of Illinois, and we got the call: “What are you doing for dinner? We’re headed your way.”

The Bohonek Family – left photo last year in Canada, right- this year in Peoria

Several hours later, they stepped aboard Now or Never like no time had passed – just like they did hundreds of times last year. Laughter filled the air (again), a few tears were shed (again), and our hearts felt a little lighter – just what we needed as we begin winding down this incredible chapter. So grateful for every friendship we’ve made… and this one, well, it’s just a little extra special. We certainly missed Lauren who had swim practice back home in Minnesota.

The following day, Tim and Janet took us on a tour of Peoria, including the Peoria River Museum and lunch in Peoria Heights, before saying goodbye. The one on one time we were able to spend with these two away from family gatherings, holidays, and such was a real treat. We’re hoping we might continue with a gathering in Florida this winter. Blessed to call Tim and Janet family.

Explore Peoria Day with Tim and Janet

We spent one last evening on the restaurant dock at Kuchie’s on the River, where a Bloody Mary called Shipwreck is a full meal in itself.

Shipwreck Bloody Mary at Kuchie’s

We then made a long run to Beardstown -71 miles – tying up to an old barge on the river. It wasn’t glamorous, but it was available. We joined crews from Happy Daze and Mai Oh My for dinner at Little Mexico, one of several Mexican restaurants in town. The restaurant was packed, but the walk back through town felt deserted.

Logsdon Tug dock in Beardstown, IL with the crews of Happy Daze & Mai Oh My

Dinner conversations led to plans for the next day’s cruise to Hardin, where we’d tie up again at a restaurant dock. Marinas and services are highlights of river life, but sometimes you have to spend the night without power or water. This would be our fifth night without hookups.

Now or Never is equipped with two inverters and a generator. The inverters keep the fridge and ice maker running and power lights and chargers. We use the generator to top off batteries each day and cool the cabin before bedtime. We carry 150 gallons of water, usually enough for five days, but with guests and a summer heat wave, we were cautious. These are small comforts we sometimes take for granted at home or in marinas.

Early the next morning, the three boats set out for Mel’s on the River. Now or Never arrived first, securing space for all three. We enjoyed dinner with the looper crew and followed it with breakfast before a short 20-mile cruise to Grafton.

Mel’s Diner dock in Hardin, IL

The late summer drought is clearly taking a toll on the river. Many tributaries are dry, docks high and dry, and marinas have limited depth for boats. The Mississippi promises to be even more challenging. And then there are the narrow parts of the river where you have to closely share the channel.

Sharing the river with a barge

Illinois River views

By 11 a.m. in Grafton, we were plugged into power and water – finally able to catch up on laundry, boat washing, and enjoy a long shower. The summer heat came on like a light switch and after a few days, this was a welcome relief.

Grafton, calling itself the “Key West of the Midwest,” was lively on the weekend with live music, pool parties, and plenty of watering holes. We stayed a couple of days, took a sky tour for a magnificent view of where the Illinois meets the Mississippi, enjoyed lunch up top and maybe rode the alpine coaster—a short but fun ride.

Fun town of Grafton, IL

The Illinois River may be lacking in traditional marinas but certainly wasn’t lacking in quirky character stops. We stayed at a boatyard, a town wall, 2 restaurant docks, an old barge, and two marinas – quite the variety and all the things memories are made of.

Holding onto these last moments of the trip, spending time with the looper community, and soaking in the sights of this wonderful country, it’s hard to imagine how it could get any better.

Cheers!  David, Tasha, 

          & Remy forever in our hearts!   –   Loop Dog for 1 year and 3357 miles

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