No Shoes, No Shirt, No Problems

* Marathon, Florida *

Excited to be in the Keys is an understatement. The Now or Never and crew is in the islands. We realize it’s the Keys and not the Caribbean “Islands”, but to motor your own vessel into the tranquil teal blue colors of the sea, to the Florida Keys, and staying a month, this is a surreal moment. Definitely a No Shoes, No Shirt, No Problems port. It’s really the no shoes and no problems as we will leave the no shirts for the younger crowd! And we are finding the Keys a no problems destination and are adjusting to the laid back, no schedule attitude of island time(we getting good at having no schedule).

We learned from our extended stays in Clearwater Beach and Fort Myers that we should not put things off until another day thinking we have plenty of time. Time flew by and we never experienced some things we wanted to, so we decided to dive right in. One of Tasha’s all-time favorite movies is The Shawshank Redemption. One of our looper friends includes on their boat card the famous line from the movie. “Get busy living or get busy dying”. So this crew is going to get busy living in the Keys.

With a bit of a choppy day at sea for the approach to Marathon and the first mate and dog a bit rougher for the wear, we settled into a quiet first evening and explored Marlin Bay Resort and Marina.

Happy to be back on land

Seems the place was intended to be a Yacht Club (Marlin Bay Yacht Club) with condos, but because of the original investors and the bank going bust (downturn in economy in 2009), it has never been completed, and the new investors started marketing it as a resort with docks (Marlin Bay Resort and Marina). Part of the property is completed and is beautiful.

The other part a construction site (right side of upper picture – no construction going on). The inner basin in well protected and appointed. The outer basin has a killer view of the water, sunrise and sunsets, but the word outer, in the gulf, with the winds, has proven to be quite sporty (a common term a fellow looper and great lakes fishing enthusiast uses for the water he knows his wife wants no part of!). February and March are the windy season, and many say this is the windiest it has been in years.

The facilities include a beautiful pool, hot tub, tiki bar, workout room, spa, sauna, clubhouse, boaters lounge, thirteen of the originally intended 92 condos, two basins with room for 74 boats (originally intended 99), 24 boat lifts for small craft (only a few used) and the sunset observation tower. Unfortunately, with the resort never being completed as intended and being more focused on residential rentals (even though there are few), there are some drawbacks for boaters and guests.

The entry to the marina side of things is through a non active construction site, and gravel chained off walk way. There is no sideway or direct entry. It is not easy to traverse with supplies, bikes, or in inclement weather. The property has very limited bathroom/shower facilities and there is no laundry on site. For many cruisers the lack of facilities causes great problems. We are fortunate to not need them. The only laundry mat in Marathon is over a mile away.

Marlin Bay is a beautifully manicured and clean facility (in the areas that are completed), and is in a great location in Marathon. The inner basin is well protected and void of most sea grass. The docks are fixed but new and nicely built. The dock hands provide pump out services once a week and deliver packages to your boat. The resort is gated and secure. Several good restaurants are just a few blocks away along with a grocery, West Marine, city park, public library, Walgreens, Home Depot, and more restaurants within a mile. And you cannot miss the killer sunsets! Every single night!

The Now or Never is docked in the outer basin, Tasha tried very hard to get into the inner basin to no avail. The outer has much less wind and wake protection.

We met our boat neighbors upon our arrival. Winds of Time – gold loopers and Lake Erie boaters on our port and Done Doc ‘N – Destin resident cruisers on our starboard. Friends we first met in October and continue to see are directly across the basin from us. We were exhausted after a long day on the water, ate dinner on the boat, watched a fabulous sunset off the stern of our boat as we have the most beautiful westerly view and sunsets are spectacular here.

Before falling into bed, sitting on the aft deck, David noticed in the crystal-clear waters of the Keys that the neighbors had their underwater lights on. The were bright and lit up the aquatic oasis under the docks. Ours have never worked right and certainly aren’t that bright. This is probably going to cost us. David went to working on ours, hitting switches and trying to see if we could get more brightness from ours. He got down on the swim platform to look at the Now or Nevers lights and what did he see? Why it was one of those pesky crab trap floats and rope bobbing up and down under the swim platform.

We thought we had escaped the hazards on the way. We did not and had the float to remind and haunt us. He waited until morning to investigate further. The captain rose early (he usually does) and put the GoPro on a long boat pole and stuck it under the boat to determine the situation. One line from a crab trap was wrapped around both props, the rudder, and a trim tab! We are so lucky to have made it here. We should have been crippled immediately. Dead in the water. And the only thing to do would be to dive in with a knife and cut it all off. David had warned Tasha that this would be her duty should it happen.

Luckily, we had no clue we had snagged a crab trap rope and the first mate didn’t have to dive under the boat somewhere in the middle of the gulf! Whew! We were hiring a diver to clean the bottom of our boat and we would have him cut the line and look for damage at that time. We were thankful he found none. We kept the float and rope and it will displayed like a trophy with our other nautical things at home.

Some of the highlights from the week as we got busy living included:

Dinghy Exploration – We love to explore the water and area we visit by dinghy. Typically, we go port to port and don’t alter the course and in many areas the waters are just too shallow to do anything else. The dinghy takes us to places we could never see by our cruiser or on foot. It’s great transportation getting to restaurants, attractions, and sometimes provisioning. We also love to sight see and take in our surroundings.

The teal waters are so inviting, and the breeze is a wonderful change from the heat we were experiencing late in our Fort Myers stay. It certainly does not feel like 80 degrees with the breeze. The waters were calm, so we took the dinghy down and headed out. We followed the water line and dodged in and out marinas and boat docks to the southwest of us and all around seven-mile bridge. We were in Faro Blanco Marina and wanted to check out a channel, the first mate saw Coast Guard boats ahead and asked the captain if we should really venture back that way?  He indicated there were no signs that said we could not approach, so why not and we started to proceed. Then out of the Coast Guard building ran a half a dozen people yelling turn around, do not enter, go back. Guess we got our answer, but to our defense, there was no signage to indicate this at all. They loaded up in a couple of boats and came roaring toward us. Were we really in that much trouble? They flew past us and continued out into the gulf, we assume on a run or drill. It got our hearts beating fast!

We continued our voyage under seven-mile bridge and into the Atlantic Ocean, our first glimpse and ride in the ocean. Again, the waters are just incredible here. We covered thirteen miles in all, checked out many eateries (for future meals) navigable by dinghy and had a spectacular afternoon. This will be the first of many dinghy cruises.

Key West – A first for us! We had the opportunity to head to Key West with our friends Judy and Dave from Freedom. We first met them at the rendezvous in Alabama in October as we docked next to each other. We have seen them several other places along the way, and they arrived a month earlier to Marathon. Having a rental car for a few days, they invited us to join them for the day (that is the ultimate friends with cars!).

We know nothing about Key West, well, we’ve heard some things but as you know what happens in Key West, stays in Key West, but neither of us have ever been. We had discussed taking the bus down for a day but with friends with a car, this was going to be perfect. Having a car, we were able to cover a lot of ground and hit the must do tourist things like the southernmost point of the continental USA, and the southernmost bar buoy of the continental USA, as well as Mallory Square, though is just doesn’t have the same vibe in the afternoon as you see in photos at sunset.

We walked Duvall Street, visited shops, ate lunch, and headed to the waterfront to look at the marinas and boats. One thing boater always do, is check out marinas, look at boats, and talk to other boaters.

We also wanted to check the Key West marinas as well as a couple at Stock Island as we have been contemplating trying to get in for a week or two before we make our way back up the East Coast of Florida. We were glad we visited prior as neither area would have been a good for for Remy. And if it doesn’t work for Remy, it doesn’t work. Easy access to boarding and conducive pet walking areas that aren’t miles from your boat are a must. None had either. As long as Remy is cruising with us, our journey revolves around her needs and comfort in mind.  So, the bonus of the day trip for us is we learned we will not be going to Key West or Stock Island by boat but will leave with the crew of Freedom and head to John Pennekamp State Park weather permitting on the first of April.

We had a wonderful day exploring Key West!

Boot Key Harbor – While Tasha took off with friends to the farmers market on Ramrod Key, Dave took off across the street to the City Marina at Boot Key Harbor for their monthly swap meet. All kinds of wares from the mostly sailing community were available for cash, swap, or barter. It is hard to describe the harbor and the characters there, so much so, that Dave took Tasha back twice so she could see it for herself. It is a community all in itself. With 226 mooring balls, a large anchorage, lay along docks, we well as multiple dinghy docks available on a first come, first served basis, hundreds of boaters chose this as their winter home as well as many year-round. Some might have just been there forever (at least their boats sure look like it). Many return each winter as they follow the sun. The facilities include a big shower house, tons of bike racks, community building with library, tv stations, games, tables with charging stations, and fans to cool off with as well as project areas for boaters to use. They pay for their water 5 cents per gallon, though many take jerrycans in the showers with them. They have mobile pump out boats that assist boaters weekly.

It appears to be one big happy family nestled in behind the city park where many participate in the pickleball and bocce ball leagues. There were very few (maybe 2) mooring balls we saw open. It is where people go for winter. We heard from loopers moored there that they like to get there by mid -December to ensure they have a mooring ball for the winter.

There are benches on the docks, and the captain rides his bike over to sit and watch the world go by. Relaxing and entertaining.

Water Aerobics – Those of you who know Tasha, know that she is anything but shy (a huge contrast from the little girl who was extremely shy until school age). On her first visit to the pool, Tasha and our friend Judy stumbled onto our dock mate doing water aerobics on her own and asked to join along. She welcomed us and has been leading a class each morning with rotating crowd of five due to Tasha inviting everyone! The pool here is beautiful and we take over the north end each morning. We continue to have others ask where to sign up for the class. All are welcome at 8:30 – bring a noodle!

Docktails and dinner– Our first get together in the Keys was right after we arrived. A gathering of about eight boat crews, out of the sunset tower, enjoying each other’s company, sharing tales of our voyages. Remy was in the middle of it all and in heaven! She loves any type of gathering! We were treated to a spectacular sunset and a rainbow. The perfect looper evening. And this too will be the first of many.

We were also able to dine at a local establishment with Gold Loopers Dave and Debbie on Winds of Time and current loopers Rick and Lori aboard I’ll Have Another.

Karen and Danny from OnLine invited us to dinner. Danny is an amazing cook and dinners on the OnLine vessel are always wonderful. Whether new or old, friends are what makes the world go round! Many gatherings and many spectacular sunsets.

Loopers Helping Loopers – Sadly, the day prior to our arrival, a fellow looper boat caught on fire at the marina. They were not on board, though their dog was and others were able to get Calypso off the boat. It appears that the electrical cords over heated and started the fire. Fire damage was contained to the stern where the cords entered the boat, though water and smoke damage was throughout the whole boat. A notice was sent out to other loopers at the marina that they could use help, wiping down all their belongings from smoke damage. Everything was covered in soot. We immediately volunteered and headed to where they had moved the boat in a different basin at the side of the marina.

A group of loopers showed up to support our fellow boaters and spent the day wiping down everything on their boat, which was just about everthing they owned since their boat was their full time home. It was a bit awkward going through all their belongings, though they were in such dispair, we wanted to help in anyway we could. Remy had us deliver a treat bag for Calypso. This was a wakeup call for all of us and we are so glad no one was injured or killed, and the boat wasn’t a total loss. We are hopeful they will be able to get her fixed soon and be back on the loop with us all.

Everything in this port is new to us as neither of us have been here for over forty years. That’s the excitement and draw to this journey. There are really very few areas along our route we have been to prior in our lives, let alone together. Seeing America, one small stop at a time, off the beaten path, and viewed by water. We certainly have one beautiful country, and we are so blessed to be seeing it on our Great Loop adventure.

In the islands, some hear Jimmy Buffet, some hear Jack Johnson, some hear our new Key West favorite Cliff Cody, but all hear the sounds of the islands, the steel drums, the wind and the water calling you to unwind, we seem to be hearing Kenny Chesney . . . No Shoes, No Shirt, No Problems.

Cheers! D, T & R

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