North Channel Finale

A piece of our hearts remained behind as we exited the Killarney Channel on a beautiful Sunday morning, tears gently mixing with the breeze. With a deep breath and full hearts, we turned our sights to new adventures on our Great Loop journey.

Goodbye Killarney – George our host, we went through Covered Portage Cove to see the Chief!

Our next stop was a short 15-mile run to the historic Okeechobee Lodge. Built in 1940 and opened in 1945, this lodge originally served as a high-end fish camp. Its name was inspired by Lake Okeechobee in Florida – Okeechobee meaning “Big Water” – a fitting title given the lodge’s waterside isolation.

Okeechobee Lodge

The lodge boasts of visits from three U.S. Presidents and one Canadian Prime Minister. Rumor has it that it was also a hideaway for mobsters of the time – its remote location made it easy to spot anyone approaching for miles. We had last visited about 15 years ago, thanks to Tasha’s Dad, Kurt. At that time, it was a private oasis for the owner’s friends. While the lodge currently doesn’t offer food or drink, dockage is available to transients, and the place felt unchanged—a time capsule tucked into the wild.

Although technically not an island, there are no roads to the tip of Baie Fine (pronounced “Bay Fin”) where the lodge is located; water is the only way in or out. We used the lodge as a base to explore the breathtaking area, including Baie Fine, The Pool, and Topaz Lake.

Tasha packed a lunch while Dave dropped the dinghy, and we set off for the 9-mile ride down Baie Fine, a fjord-like stretch of water that carved its way through soaring granite cliffs. We reached The Pool, a secluded basin of crystal-clear water and awe-inspiring scenery, where we enjoyed lunch alongside a few other cruisers.

Cruising up Baie Fine to The Pool for lunch

Welcoming you to The Pool is the Evinrude Cottage, built on a large granite rock by Ralph Evinrude (of Evinrude engine fame) for his wife. Legend has it their 120-foot yacht would dock right at the rock, powering the home with the ship’s generator. The boat was reportedly longer than the rock itself – bow and stern hanging beyond the edges.

Evinrude Cottage at the entry to The Pool

After lunch, we beached the dinghy and hiked a rugged trail toward Topaz Lake, a hidden gem high in the cliffs. The .6-mile trek included a 2,000-foot elevation gain and the “dry” creek bed was muddier than expected due to recent rains. We wandered off-trail at times, guided by distant voices from the lake. At the summit, Topaz Lake shimmered like a jewel, true to its name. We chose not to swim, a decision quickly validated by the sight of a large snake slithering out of the water onto nearby rocks.

Topaz Lake Hike

Topaz Lake

Our return trip was much rougher. Winds had picked up considerably, and the 9-mile dinghy ride became a bumpy, wet affair, at least for Tasha. Back at the lodge, everyone was busy adjusting fenders and lines, fighting the relentless gusts that strengthened into the evening. The boat rocked well into the night before the wind finally calmed.

As river boaters, we have been a bit naive about the kind of wind we’d be facing on this journey. It’s a frequent, powerful force, something we now talk about often as part of our daily planning.

The following morning, long before Tasha stirred, David set off on a solitary dinghy expedition to find the remains of the Birch Island Lodge – a place his parents had visited in the mid-50s. Armed with information from local historians in Little Current, he navigated unfamiliar waters, his heart steady with anticipation. The journey from Okeechobee to the inlet was brief, but once there, he carefully maneuvered the dinghy through the shallows, until he reached a larger pool where the depths became safe again.

Surviving lodge fireplace on Birch Island

Using the GPS coordinates, it didn’t take long to spot the remnants of the lodge. The stone fireplace and chimney still stood, though the walls and structure had long since crumbled away, overtaken by nature’s quiet reclamation. A few dock pilings jutted from the water, and fragments of stone steps lined the waterfront. The foundations of old cabins peeked through the overgrowth, and a footbridge that once connected the small island to the larger one remained intact.

Birch Island

The area was as remote and untouched as any place could be in the present day – no signs of civilization disturbed its peaceful isolation. David paused, absorbing the solitude, as his mind sifted through old photographs, comparing their faded images with the scene before him. He could almost place the memories in their proper spots, some seventy years in the past. It was a quiet, contemplative moment that offered more than just answers—it provided a sense of closure to questions he’d never thought to ask, questions he’d held onto for too long. It was a lesson in the importance of asking, and of taking the time to seek out the answers before they are lost forever.

Calmer seas in tow as we cruised to our first anchorage of the year: Browning Cove. Unlike the granite-lined shorelines we had grown used to, this cove had an accessible, inviting shoreline. We grilled, relaxed, and simply enjoyed the peace.

Browning Cove

After a night of sweet slumber, we made our way back to Little Current, passing through the historic Little Current Swing Bridge, which first opened in 1913. This bridge originally provided the only land access to Manitoulin Island. Today, the island can be reached by boat, plane, or a ferry that runs from Tobermory, Ontario, to the southeast shore. Initially built as a railroad bridge, it was modified in 1946 to accommodate both road vehicles and trains. However, trains stopped using the tracks in 1963, and the tracks were eventually removed in 1980. Now, the bridge serves only vehicle traffic and opens at the top of each hour during daylight hours to allow boats through. At night and during winter, the channel remains closed to boating unless you can clear the 17-foot air draft.

Little Current Swing Bridge

We docked back at our spot on the wall and caught up with fellow Loopers we had met earlier in Little Current and Killarney while waiting out the weather. With thunderstorms and tornado warnings in the forecast, we braced ourselves for what was coming. Rotating storm clouds were spotted over Manitoulin Island, Tornado warnings were issued, and we were grateful to be tied up at the dock instead of anchored out, which was our original plan. The lightning, strong winds, dark skies, and cloud rotation all coincided with the loss of our Starlink connection. At first, we wondered if the Starlink equipment itself was damaged, but then we learned the village Wi-Fi was down, so it seemed we weren’t the only ones affected. A store clerk confirmed that the outage was widespread, and after three years of reliable Starlink service on the boat, this was the first time it had failed. What were the odds that this outage would happen just as the storms were hitting Manitoulin Island?

Manitoulin Island Storm

Our final destination in Canada was Gore Bay, a picturesque, deep inlet lined with steep, tree-covered hills. We arrived just in time for their Harbor Days, the town’s biggest celebration, which draws thousands of visitors to this small fishing village at the end of our dock. The celebration featured food vendors, a crafts market, kids’ zone, car show, beer garden, and live music that ran late into the night. We’re typically in bed by 10 p.m., and loopers tout 9:00 p.m. as looper midnight, but this little town stayed rocking until 1 a.m. both nights! Fortunately, the late-night bands were talented, and they played music we enjoyed and were able to fall asleep to.

Gore Bay

From our marina, we had a great view of a lookout high on the mountain across the bay, marked by a Canadian flag. After a little research, we discovered a trail leading to the lookout. We set out on foot, following a boardwalk that curved around the bay, then up a steep street to the trailhead.

Guarding the trail

Along the way, we spotted two foxes – one lying down and the other stretching curiously, watching us from a distance. After a few photos, they dashed into the woods, and we continued our hike through the dense ravine, eventually reaching the lookout.

Gore Bay

At the top, the view was stunning: a panoramic vista of Gore Bay, the marina, and the hills beyond. Two people were picnicking by their car – turns out there’s a road to the top! We didn’t mind the hike though; the trail was part of the magic.

Our crew made it to the top in Gore Bay

Views from up high

On the way down, we followed another path to the shore. Captain Dave, tempted by the clear water, took off his shoes for a wade – only to realize the rocks were slick with algae. Graceful he was not!

A trip in Gore Bay

We would rise before 6:00 a.m. for our final cruise through 65 miles of Canadian waters. The cruise was long and choppy but gave us time to reflect on the past month.

We are deeply grateful for the opportunity to have explored Canada’s North Channel – 30 days of unhurried travel, 300 miles covered, six ports visited (twice in Little Current), and one peaceful anchorage. We cruised the northern shoreline of the channel east to Killarney and returned along the southern route.

North Channel run from East to West

There were no big cities, no crowded marinas – just the two of us one with nature. We found serenity in the stillness, beauty in every curve of the shoreline, and joy in the journey. The stars were our nightlight.

It was truly an incredible voyage – one that will stay with us forever.

Cheers!  David, Tasha, 

                  & Remy forever in our hearts!   –   Loop Dog for 1 year and 3357 miles

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