** North Channel – Sault Ste. Marie to Killarney **
Pointing the bow toward Canada, over next few days we would cruise the northern coast of the North Channel making our way to Killarney, ON, where we would meet up with friends and dock in front of their cabin. We would leave the Yoopers of the Upper Peninsula and join the Haweaters of Manitoulin Island. We would visit three small ports along the way and land a couple days in Little Current to celebrate Canada Day (July 1), the 158th anniversary of the Canadian Confederation.
Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan to Killarney, Ontario – Black line is USA / Canadian border
We left Sault Ste. Marie in a drizzle and haze about 9 and headed down the St. Mary’s River and turned east before we would cruise through the down bound channel narrow cut the Coast Guard made sure we missed on our way up. We navigated between a few islands and the terrain changed. Heavenly. The sun came out. We were back amongst the granite rock, the cypress and pine trees, and the feeling of oh – so Canada. It’s hard to describe the quaintness, the landscape, and the feeing of the North Channel. Thousands of granite islands with hues of pink, caramel, gray, and white, the beautifully waterline of cypress and pines with varying shades of green, deep blue-green water, fresh crisp air, and a sweet serenity. Like most of our trip, we were alone on the water, and this day it was perfect.
The North Channel
As we navigated amongst the granite islands, we entered Canadian waters and raised the yellow quarantine flag which we would fly until we officially checked in and cleared through customs.
We cruised 33 miles to our destination for the night, Hilton Beach on St. Joe Island. Upon arrival, our captain completed the easiest of our four Canadian check in’s by far. A phone call and only a few questions included names, length of stay, weapons, drugs, alcohol and cannabis, anything to declare, cannabis, and cannabis a third time. Possessing no cannabis, we were cleared and switched the yellow quarantine flag for the Canadian courtesy flag. We will fly the courtesy flag on our starboard antenna mast while our American flag will fly from the stern per protocol until we return to the USA in about a month.
First port in Canada – Hilton Beach, Ontario
The only business in the village of 1400 was a restaurant that bore the name of a dive bar from Tasha’s past on Indian Lake, Ohio and we had to visit. The Tilton Hilton of Indian Lake had the best burgers, and the floor was as level as the Leaning Tower of Pisa. This Tilton Hilton didn’t quite live up to the tilt or the burgers in Ohio, but we enjoyed it much the same.
Canada on the left, Ohio on the right
The following day with strong winds pushing us along, we arrived in Blind River after six hours and 47 miles. The beauty continued bay after bay, granite island after granite island. The winds picked up more in the last afternoon and we were happy to be tied to a dock. Dinner on board and a walk around the one block village a mile to our north, we observed kids swimming in the frigid waters. Brrrr.
Rising early the following morning, we cast off our lines just after 6 heading toward Little Current, a village on Manitoulin Island. Manitoulin Island is 1,068 sq mi, making it the largest freshwater island in the world. The island separates the larger part of Lake Huron to its south and west from Georgian Bay to its east and the North Channel to the north.
Changing sky
Manitoulin Island itself has 108 freshwater lakes, some of which have their own islands; in turn several of these “islands within islands” have their own ponds. Lake Manitou, at 40 sq mi, is the largest lake in a freshwater island in the world. Those born on Manitoulin Island are known as Haweaters. There is an abundance of hawthorn berries, locally known as hawberries and during the settlement of Manitoulin Island were eaten by all for sustenance. The name continues for the natives. There is Haweater Beer, a Haweater Hotel, Haweater shirts and an Haweater annual festival at the end of July. We’re in the land of Haweaters!
The forecast was good when we checked prior to leaving the dock, however, about an hour in, rain was beginning to fall, and a squall warning was issued for our area. This would be our 4th squall warning and luckily this one led to nothing more than light rain. The only boat we saw this day was a beautiful 85’ Fleming.
Haweaters!
Here it is the last day of June, and we have seen very few others on the water. A very surreal experience. We have been in some of the best cruising grounds for weeks and have had very few boater interactions. We are sure we will look back on this in another month or so and think boy wouldn’t it be nice if we had this water to ourselves?
We arrived in Little Current before noon, and walked the town, light rain and cool temperatures (low 50’s) kept us on board all evening.
Little Current, Ontario
The following day, Canada Day, started with a visit to the long running Little Current Cruiser’s Net radio show hosted by Roy Eaton. We were there to celebrate the first day of the Net for Roy’s 22nd season. A legend in the area, it was great to be in person for his 30 minute show. Every July and August you’ll hear on Channel 71 VHF at 9 am, “It’s 9 a.m. Welcome boaters, to the Little Current Yacht Club’s Cruisers’ Net.”
Roy Eaton – The Little Current Cruisers Net
Roy starts off each broadcast by asking if there are any emergencies. He follows with a local marine weather broadcast, local news, and the reading of all boat names in attendance and those who have checked in prior to the show. Roy then invites all the boaters to radio in and give their boat’s name and current location, then answers questions and shares information from other boaters of special news and events. It was a full room for the first broadcast of the season. We met gold loopers aboard Michi-GANDER and sailors from Bloomington, Indiana, just 40 miles from our home. Finally, some boater interaction. About 50 vessels checked in either in person or by radio/FB.
We followed up the broadcast by visiting a tiny festival out front of the civic building, a BBQ lunch at the Royal Canadian Legion, and cupcakes and music at the plaza. We rounded out our Canada Day celebration at the Manitoulin Inn for happy hour where the fierce winds lifted umbrellas and tables scattering glassware about. One of the great things about the loop is enjoying small town festivals and celebrations and it was great to be in Canada on Canada Day!
Canada Day in Little Current, Ontario
David took the time to meet with a few longtime residents of the area to continue his research on an area fishing lodge his parents frequented in the 1950’s. One of the community leaders whose family has operated a downtown store since 1879 had memories of the lodge and was able to place a finger on a nautical chart indicating the general area of the lodge, however she felt that it had been demolished several years ago. More research coming.
Little Current Swing Bridge
Little Current, Ontario
Meanwhile, Tasha who is always pondering what we will eat next discovered a business in Little Current that produces individual prepared meals. Examining their products and inventory she bought a couple for us to sample and then went back the next day to grab more to freeze for the future when provisions are hard to come by.
Provisioning – on the right a lot easier!
For a port of 1200, Little Current had a lot going on. In addition to the prepared meals we purchased, we provisioned by taking the killer stairs to the local grocery one of the better ones since we left southern Michigan. Although the killer staircase to the store wasn’t necessarily fun we knew that Killarney only has a tiny general store with prices off the charts. It would be a week before our friends would arrive and make a run to Sudbury, 60 miles away, for goods at Costco and a traditional store.
We were excited for our cruise to Killarney, ON. If you’ve been following us, you know this is one of our favorite places. We first visited Killarney nearly twenty five years ago and had the pleasure to frequent this small fishing village that connects Georgian Bay to the North Channel over the years with Tasha’s Dad, Kurt. This would be our second visit aboard Now or Never as we landed in Killarney last year before navigating south to end our season. Last year we approached and departed from the east, this year both would be from the west.
Favorite photo of Kurt, Dave and friends in Killarney
The cruise from Little Current to Killarney was an easy 23 miles. We headed through the top of the hour opening of the swing bridge and enjoyed a perfect day on the water, taking our time, just soaking it in.
A perfect day to cruise with the La Cloche Mountains in view
The wind was calm, the air warm (high 60’s), and the water sparkled and glistened. Tasha sat on the bow for the almost four hour cruise. Winding our way through the beautiful landscape of granite islands and evergreens, a lighthouse or two on a rock. Nothing but isolated beauty.
The North Channel
It’s been years since we have been in the North Channel and the west side of Killarney water and it sure was nice to be back. It feels good to be returning, returning to a place we love, and generous friends who will share their dock for the next week or two.
Welcome to Killarney!
Cheers! David, Tasha,
& Remy forever in our hearts! – Loop Dog for 1 year and 3357 miles
Sunset in the Keys with our girl Remy – 2022
Follow us on facebook for more frequent updates… Mann Aboard
Sounds like a trip everyone should take! Thank you for including us.
We certainly have been blessed and have enjoyed every minute of it!