Sporty Weather

* Oriental, NC to Manteo, NC *

131 miles and 3 cruising days    –  – –

We’ve had one heck of a heck of a weather week! Sportier conditions than the first mate would like. If you haven’t figured it out by now, Tasha is a fair weather, pleasure boater. Life is easier for the Captain if he lets her decide to go or no go. Yet, this past week our travel days have been pleasant with the winds kicking up in the afternoon making docking difficult and evenings / nights less than pleasurable.

As we left the calm shelter of Adam’s Creek on our way from Beaufort, NC to Oriental, NC and came upon the Neuse River, the winds were howling from the south and the large river was feisty. Boats were scurrying across the Neuse to get tied up as the winds were increasing quickly. Unfortunately, we were only able to secure a face dock in Oriental, outside the break wall and confines of the marina. When we booked the marina, winds did not seem to be a factor, nor did we have a clue how lively the water could get there, live and learn.

With multiple boats arriving at the same time, we were told there were four boats ahead of us before they could assist with docking. Struggling to keep the boat steady, the captain indicated we didn’t have time to wait. The first mate found it a bit harrowing setting lines while holding on for dear life as we rocked side to side. Dave made the approach dodging all too close to anchored boats and a bridge and its abutments. We had one chance to get in without additional consequences. There were several boats on the face dock, so we would be closest to the bridge. Dave would work with the wind to blow us sideways onto the dock, but we didn’t know hard we would hit, and we couldn’t let the wind blow us back to the bridge. We had to hit and tie off immediately. This wasn’t a nice flat dock with a rub rail. It was a battered dock with pilings on the outside, so fenders would not be put out until after we were tied up. The Captain swung us around and laid it on the dock as slowly as possible, it was an abrupt stop. The dock was a comfortable height for Tasha to get off the side of the boat. As soon as we hit the dock and wrapped a line, a sailboat was coming in on the inside and was struggling. They were yelling for assistance and had to make several attempts while bouncing off every boat near them on the way in. I am happy to report there was no yelling from our boat, just a couple of “Oh sh&$!”.

Before we could get our power hooked up and while still tying off, a looper came in to dock behind us. There wasn’t much room remaining between us and the bridge and it wasn’t a pretty landing even with several people assisting on shore. They panicked and switched sides at the last minute, didn’t have lines or fenders ready, and the fender or two they did have were too small. Let’s just say this is where the fiberglass and wood connected, and the sound was full on crunch. Ouch!

Once secured, we were hungry and needed to destress, we went seeking a place for dinner, finding only two options open on a Sunday, however we got as far as the Tiki Bar, food could wait.

Returning to the boat after dinner, the winds had not died down, they were ramping up. The boat was bouncing like Dolly Parton on a pogo stick. Normal lapping on the hull of the boat can put you to sleep and be a mesmerizing experience. This did not lull us to sleep. Slap, Slap, Boom. Slap, Slap, Boom. ALL. NIGHT. LONG. It was a long night.

On the way to Oriental, we had secured an inner harbor slip for the second night as the winds were predicted to continue. Thankfully someone was scheduled to leave, and we were glad it wasn’t us. We would have liked to have moved early morning as there was a lull in the winds, though our slip was not yet vacated. We spent the morning exploring the town, dropping of our taxes at the post office, grabbing breakfast at the deli, and venturing into the hardware store. We’re finding hardware stores are our favorites in these small towns and this one did not disappoint. It had everything, including hard to find marine items at decent prices. The clerk told us if we couldn’t find something, look up, and upon looking up, the store was full to the rafters, a good 12 feet up. We even knew someone in the store from the marina – felt like townies! The marina called indicating our slip was available and we quickly walked back the mile or so to move the Now or Never into the inner harbor. Boy, what a difference. As the river was throwing up 3 – 4 footers later in the day, the inner harbor showed just a ripple. We would sleep peacefully.

We loved this little town, it felt like we traveled back in time. The old school Inn and Marina, a quaint waterfront, small stores, and friendly people. It was also another great dog town, something we really like. The Inn had 11 slips all front and center on the lawn of the hotel, a tiki bar, restaurant, and pool, all within a very small area and all in view of the back deck of the Now or Never. Life was good and calm in the inner harbor at the Inn. We spent the day exploring more, a killer provisions company with a little bit of everything.

We walked the residential streets and ended up at a waterfront park where we enjoyed the Adirondack chairs, the stiff winds keeping us cool, the waves crashing on the rocks, and possibly a nap.

Ending our evening at the tiki bar and restaurant we enjoyed meeting the local dogs who were all welcomed. One, Molly, sat at the bar leaping from bar stool to bar stool with her treat pouch in her mouth, asking all to give her a treat. Molly was great entertainment! We also met Remy on an earlier adventure. Tasha just had to get a photo with her.

The next day the winds were considerably calmer, and we were off to Belhaven, NC, 46 miles north. The Neuse River was calm this day as we skirted the Atlantic, made our way through a cut that emptied into the Pungo River and of course, you guessed it, the winds were blowing. Arriving at River Forest Marina, there was one loan sailboat at the docks, it appeared to be a ghost town. Our captain got us in through the entry maze and spent a great deal of time getting us tied up to the fixed docks with pilings on the outside. It was a tight squeeze, and we didn’t want to be the star feature of pinball.

The marina is anchored by the Grand Manor, the largest home in Belhaven, now an event center and rooms on beautiful grounds. The Manor was commissioned in 1899 for by the president of the J.L. Roper Lumber Company and vice president of the Norfolk and Southern Railroad. The manor took 5 years to build and some of the same craftsmen from the Biltmore Estate is Asheville contributed to the intricate detailed finishes of the manor. It was a family estate until 1933 and then was used as a destination for celebrities, politicos and wealthy stakeholders. It had fallen into disrepair and was closed in 2011. Community residents invested in the manor in 2014 and transformed it to meet the original vision of grander. A new family just took ownership and is working to make it the go to event center in the area. The patriarch of the family could be seen mowing the lawn, trimming the shrubs, taking out the trash, planting flowers on site each day.

The marina had great amenities, courtesy golf carts made going to town and the grocery very easy, courtesy laundry which Tasha took advantage of and did 6 loads including bulky bedding, rugs, and rags, clean restrooms and showers, slip side fueling and pump out, and a helpful, friendly staff including the owner. However, there was no protection from the south or west winds and waves. Another strikeout for calm waters, the first night was very rocky, again. We stayed two nights; one would have been enough had the winds died down.

We were greeted immediately by Diana, the former chamber director, turned realtor, and self-proclaimed harbor host. She brought us a goodie bag that included all the highlights of town, magazines, and her cell number to call should we need anything. She regularly takes people to the store, the doctor, and helps with whatever they might need. We saw her in town later and she asked again if she could be of help. The whole town was full of friendly people. The highlight of the stop was the hardware store which had everything, including liquor, food, boat parts, clothing, housewares, and hardware. We used the golf cart to head to the grocery located on the local highway. The police passed us but didn’t indicate a problem, seems to be a golf cart town.

We left Belhaven and after a bit on the Pungo River, went again through another cut that took us to the Alligator River which dumps into the Albemarle Sound. After our 56-mile voyage, we anchored in the Little Alligator River at the mouth of the Albemarle Sound. Again, a nice day of cruising with winds picking up in the evening. We anchored amidst a plethora of crab floats and what appeared to be duck blinds.

We had high hopes to visit Ocracoke Island in the Outer Banks leaving Oriental, but the winds continue to be relentless. Ocracoke is only accessible by boat and looks to be a very cool area. We could have gotten there but would have had to stay a week or more because of weather, seas were building to 5- 6 feet inside the outer banks. We chose to head through the inner banks and then further north motor to Roanoke Island, for a two-night visit to the Outer Banks. It was smooth sailing, a relief as we were entering bigger water. We had a beautiful cruise of 29 miles and made it to Shallowbag Marina on the East Coast of Roanoke Island just west Nags Head on the Outer Banks. The marina was in Shallowbag Bay, a large bay without a lot of protection though checking weather our 3 days there looked to be light winds and good conditions.

We got in early and took off to the heart to the heart of Manteo, the Roanoke Marshes Lighthouse, and the waterfront via a long waterfront boardwalk, eating lunch along the boardwalk. On our trek back to the boat, we stopped at the local Ford dealer and rented a car for the next day to venture out further.

We took to the marina restaurant/ bar for dinner and enjoyed the company of fellow mariner, Jim, from Solomons Island. He keeps his boat at Shallowbag, works in DC and lives in Solomons. He encouraged us to reach out to him when we made it to DC and Solomons and he would show us around and help us provision. This story is played out repeatedly on our trip, so many friendly people offering to assist and help with our journey.

While sitting at the bar overlooking the Now or Never, we noticed the skyline changing. We weren’t quite sure what we were witnessing. The cloud formation was incredible and unlike anything we have seen. We hustled to get our bill paid, so we could get back to the boat before whatever was going to happen, happened. As we got to the door to exit along with others, the wind came rushing through the bar, napkins and menus flying through the air, and we were met with cool, strong winds.

The water in the bay and thus the marina, was rocking and rolling with white caps and for a non-tidal area, the winds had sucked about a foot out of the basin. Dave jumped on the boat, Tasha struggled a bit with the short docks, shifting height, and a moving target to land on. We battened up the hatches as the wind howled.  

The boat was pulled to the very back of the slip and hugged the starboard side so we could get off the short finger, that wasn’t the ideal situation for a storm. The captain wrestled with lines and wind to center us more as we were shifting a good foot or two from side to side and purposing 2 – 3 feet with the wind and waves.

We were in awe of the cloud formation, the wind and what appeared to be waterspouts building across the bay. Each with a phone in hand documenting this storm. Luckily it was a fast storm and moved out within a couple of hours and was calm overnight.

The next morning with a set of wheels we were off to explore. We went to Fort Raleigh National Historic site on Roanoke and learned of the Lost Colony, the Wright Brothers National Memorial, Bodie Island Lighthouse, Jockey’s Ridge State Park, Manns Harbor, as well as a drive around the islands. We crammed a lot in during our short stay.

We learned at Fort Raleigh, that in 1587, 117 English men, women, and children came ashore on Roanoke Island to establish a permanent English settlement in the new world. Just three years later in 1590, when English ships returned with supplies, they found the island deserted with no signs of the colonists. After nearly 450 years, the mystery of what happened to the colonists remains unsolved.

Tasha took a left instead of a right out of Fort Raleigh and we ended up in Manns Harbor, must have been meant to be. Not much there but we took photos of what we could find with our name on it!

David was most excited to visit the Wright Brothers Memorial at Kill Devil Hills, what a great national park treasure. We enjoyed a very informative ranger talk before setting out to view the grounds and the memorial. It was 120 years ago this December that our Ohio natives Wilbur and Orville Wright took flight at what was then Kitty Hawk, NC.

The brothers chose Kitty Hawk after much research due to its regular breezes, soft sandy landing surfaces, and remote location for privacy. They spent three years going back and forth from Ohio before the historic day in December of 1903. On the 17^th they made four brief flights with their first powered aircraft. The initial flight covered 120 feet and lasted 12 seconds. Each flight was a little longer and further. The fourth and final flight (as they crashed the craft on the fifth and it was never flown again) was their best at 50 seconds and 852 feet. They returned later with new planes and new records, but it was that December day in 1903 that changed our world forever.

At Jockey’s Ridge State Park, we stumbled upon a cool kite festival on the dunes.    

We also were excited to visit the Bodie Island Lighthouse, one of the few climbable lighthouses in the Outer Banks. However, we didn’t do our homework and discovered upon arrival that visitors are limited, eight people every 20 minutes only and tickets go on sale every morning at 7:00 am. We arrived early afternoon and there was one ticket left for the last climb at 5:20 pm.

We joined a ranger talk that had just started as we wanted to at least learn about the lighthouse. He must have been a new ranger as we sat through a painful inarticulate 30-minute discussion on everything except the lighthouse! Rip currents, marsh lands, turtles, birds, you name it, but he didn’t once bring up the light house 200 feet behind him. We went inside the visitor’s center hoping to catch a film or some type of presentation, nada. We were disappointed. We retired back to the boat that evening and watched a presentation on the internet.

The Bodie (pronounced as body) Lighthouse was built in 1872 and stands 164 feet tall. Folklore would have you believe it is due to the number of dead sailors washed ashore from shipwrecks along this portion of the East Coast, which has long been known as the “Graveyard of the Atlantic”, but that is not true. The name was derived after the name of the area, which was Bodie’s Island, named after the Body family who once owned the land that was a separate barrier island prior to 1811. It is the third lighthouse that stood in this vicinity of the Outer Banks. The lighthouse sits just south of Nags Head and was renovated from 2009 to 2013 to make it climbable to the public. There are 214 spiral steps to the top. It is one of only a dozen brick tower lighthouses remaining is the United States, and one of a few with an original first-order Fresnel lens to cast its light. It has a range of 19 nautical miles. We would have loved to have seen the view from the top!

It was time to leave the area, we would have loved to have stayed longer as this was a top port for us, but with the timing of winds, we had a short window for smooth sailing.

 *    A few noteworthy updates from the Big Rock Blue Marlin Tournament that was held in Morehead City and Beaufort the past ten days. While we were experiencing tumultuous weather, those at the tournament were experiencing the same (well maybe a little more severe since they were on the open ocean). Twelve-foot waves in the Atlantic kept 75% of the boats in port several days (one can only sit out 2 days during the tournament). One boat was struck by lightning and was disabled. Thankfully no one was hurt, but we can’t imagine getting battered in 12-foot waves and being dead in the water. How miserable.

On the last day of the tournament, anglers battled a killer sized 619.4-pound marlin for six hours. Upon reeling the marlin in, there was some late-night drama as the marlin had been bitten by a shark and that could be cause for elimination. Judges took it under advisement overnight. The following day, they announced that the fish was disqualified, and not only did they lose out on the first-place prize money, but they also lost out on a $749,000 bonus prize for the first fish over 500 pounds. First place went to a crew with a marlin weighing in at 484.5 pounds and total winnings of $2,769.437.50!

Our friend Dave, aboard M/F Freedom with a homeport on Lake Michigan would have probably called our week of weather, sporty, but for Tasha, it’s a no thank you. She wants no part of sporty boating and welcomes the title of marina queen if needed. The captain reminds her it’s only time before we get caught in a big one! Here’s to fair winds and following seas for our trek on American’s Great Loop!

Cheers!  David, Tasha,  

                  & Remy forever in our hearts!

 

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