The Mighty Mississippi leading us Home

** Grafton > Alton > Kimswick > Little Diversion River > Paducah > Kuttawa **

Three hundred and sixteen miles we would cruise on the Mississippi, Ohio, and Cumberland Rivers taking us full circle. The Mississippi was one wild ride. Leaving Grafton, we launched into one of the most noted stretches of our Great Loop adventure: the Mississippi River. Like a modern-day Tom Sawyer and Huck Finn, we were filled with excitement and awe as we ventured into the unknown.

River adventure from Grafton, IL to Kuttawa, KY

The 16-mile cruise to Alton was nothing short of stunning. Towering bluffs framed the river in unexpected beauty. We had no idea what to expect from this region – it was completely new to us. Along the way, we passed the 21-foot Our Lady of the Rivers Shrine, standing proudly at the waterline on the Missouri shore. It’s a peaceful spot meant to promote safe boating and offers spectacular views across to the Illinois bluffs.

Illionois Bluffs and Our Lady of the River Shrine

We overnighted in Alton, but the scorching 95-degree day kept us from exploring too much. The town on the hill just seemed too far under the heat.

The next morning, we joined five other “Looper” boats heading through two locks and into downtown St. Louis, home of the iconic Gateway Arch. We took turns photographing each other’s boats in front of the Arch – Fawn and Jimi on Shay Chalet captured our shot, and we got theirs.

Mississippi River Locks

Now or Never at the Arch

With this area, we entered our 18th state on the Loop—Missouri!

Leaving the city behind, the scenery turned rural fast. The Mississippi widened, but low water levels made navigation tricky. Barges were scattered and often anchored mid-river, requiring a lot of weaving. The Chain of Rock Locks just north of St. Louis is the last lock on the Mississippi, thus the makeup of the water and river changed, as well as navigation got tricky.

After 43 miles, we stopped at Hoppie’s Marina – another rustic stop. Once a bustling stop with 5-6 overnight barges, Hoppie’s is now down to just one barge and space for two boats. Still, it’s legendary among Loopers. We reserved our spot a week ahead and were grateful we did.

Hoppie’s Marina – bottom photo Now or Never sticking out on the right

We made our way into tiny Kimswick, MO for lunch, to the much looper favored spot of the Blue Owl Restaurant and Bakery for a delcious lunch and the much anticipated Levee High Apple Pie. Delicious and stunning!

Fawn and Jimi from Shay Chalet in Kimswick and the Levee High Apple Pie

Debbie from Hoppie’s gave us and Shay Chalet a river briefing that evening. Her knowledge, her family legacy, and her fight to keep this place alive despite floods and ice dams made the visit both touching and significant. This may very well be Hoppie’s last season – another reminder of how fast things can change on the river.

Debbie at Hoppie’s giving a river briefing inside the barge

Based on Debbie’s advice and the 95+ degree heat, we opted for two long days downriver instead of four. With anchorages limited due to construction by the Army Corps, we pushed 110 miles to anchor for a peaceful night in Little Diversion River – just us and Shay Chalet.

Little Diversion River peaceful anchorage off the Mississippi River

The next day brought a 95-mile run, with one lock before reaching Paducah, Kentucky. We out run storms all morning.

Out running storms on the Mississippi

The Mississippi was no easy cruise – strong currents, swirling eddies, and unpredictable wing dams meant constant attention at the helm. This was not an easy run for the captain and he was ready to get off the Mississippi River. Down the Mississippi, we were gaining 3 mph thanks to the current, only to lose that momentum as we turned up the Ohio River, our home river, and we were running against the current. The hairpin turn onto the Ohio took all the captains strength to get the bow headed up river from the Mississippi. The dual currents wanted to spin Now or Never. Ahh, the Ohio River. Big, beautiful, and home.

Twists, turns and sights along the Mississippi

The Olmsted Lock was ready for us, thanks to one of the friendliest lockmasters we’ve encountered. By evening, we were docked in Paducah, greeted by a beautiful 340-foot transient dock designed with Loopers in mind.

Locking on the Mississippi

Paducah Docks

We stayed several nights, soaking in our last days with fellow Loopers. We explored the National Quilt Museum, the Paducah Railroad Museum, and admired the murals along the flood wall – a 14-foot, 3.5 mile concrete barrier that protects the town from historic flooding.

Incredible artistry at the Quilt Museum

Train Museum

Flood Wall Mural

Emotions were running high on a rainy, dreary morning. This day, we would cruise full circle at the confluence of the Ohio and Cumberland Rivers – the very place where our journey on the loop route began over four years ago. What a ride it has been! We left Paducah alongside Shay Chalet, our “buddy boat” documented it all, even if they were “voluntold” as official photographers.

The confluence of the Ohio and Cumberland Rivers where our loop begain in 2021

While the moment was thrilling, the official celebration with our friends and family as well as the looper community would have to wait two more days. That part was tough. Friends and family had traveled from three different states to join our wake crossing celebration, and coordinating everything ahead of time wasn’t without its bumps.

We were running ahead of schedule and had planned to stall in Paducah, then cruise into Green Turtle Bay via the Barkley Lock and into Lake Barkley on the set celebration date. But just a few days before, we got word that the Kentucky Lock would be closing for a month – rerouting all commercial traffic into the Barkley Lock. That meant long delays, which we definitely wanted to avoid with our guests waiting from afar.

Like so many times on this loop, we pivoted. We transited the lock two days early to make sure we’d arrive at Green Turtle Bay, the very first marina on the loop route we visited when this whole adventure started, on time.

Our last lock on the loop Buzzard Rock Marina

That final lock led us into Lake Barkley, a serene and familiar place. Shay Chalet cruised to Green Turtle Bay, while we continued to Buzzard Rock Marina.

In those two quiet days at Buzzard Rock, emotions ran high. After years of dreaming, planning, and navigating, we were at the finish line – and unsure if we were ready to be done. We’ve grown to love this simple life on the water: fewer things, less noise, more freedom, and the most welcoming community we’ve ever experienced.

The final sunset before we go GOLD!

We’ll miss our floating home, the rhythm of the river, and the people we’ve met along the way, but it’s about time to fly the gold burgee on Now or Never.

Cheers! David, Tasha,

& Remy forever in our hearts! – Loop Dog for 1 year and 3357 miles