Traveling the Trent

** Trenton to Fenelon Falls, Ontario **

The past few of weeks have been nothing less than incredible. We have enjoyed every bit of this journey, but day after day on the Trent Severn Waterway has been exhilarating, beautiful, enjoyable, different, and rewarding. We set off on Independence Day, cruising under the Gateway to the Trent Severn Waterway sign and we were off on one of our most anticipated segments of the loop.

Trenton to Orillia, Ontario

We have dreamed of the Trent Severn Waterway for years, heard of its beauty, incredible locks, and beautiful waters. Much like Georgian Bay and the North Channel where we had spent time with Tasha’s Dad Kurt and loved every minute of it. As we have mentioned before, we just wish Kurt was along to experience this with us. He would have loved this trip!

Now or Never entering the Trent Severn Waterway in Trenton, ON

The night before we said our goodbyes to Karen, Eric, and Tank, a bit bittersweet, as we don’t have a planned rendezvous with them in the future. Each of our eight times we have met up on the water, we always knew we would meet in Trenton, their home port. It seemed so far in the future. Now, that we finally made it to Trenton and beyond, we certainly hope our paths will cross again in the south.

The Trent Severn Waterway (TSW) is a 240 mile canal made up of rivers, lakes, and hand dug canals that in essence connect Lake Ontario to Georgian Bay / Lake Huron. The TSW contains 44 locks, including 2 hydraulic lift locks, 2 flight locks, 1 marine railway, with the remaining being traditional locks. The lock walls are popular overnight moorings (some with power) and with a mooring pass one may overnight at any of them along the way. There is also a lock fee to transit the waterway, unlike the Erie Canal which is free.

The Trent Severn connects Lake Ontario to Georgian Bay / Lake Huron – we started in bottom right and are traveling east to west

Completed in 1920, the TSW took 87 years to complete – designed to create commercial route from Lake Ontario to Georgian Bay. The waterway meanders through beautiful rivers, lakes, and canals from the Bay of Quinte to Port Severn. By the time it was completed, multi-lane highways and extensive railways had reduced the need for the system. Today the waterway is a National Historical Site primarily used by pleasure craft.

How the locks work (per Parks Canada brochure):   A lock consists of at least one watertight basin know as the lock chamber. Vessels are raised and lowered by filling or emptying the lock chamber with the use of sluices (or valves). Gates at each end of the lock chamber allow the boats to enter and leave. The gates are operated by various hydraulic, electric, or manually operated systems.

            1. The vessel enters the lock and ties off. 

2. The lock gates and sluices close. 

3. Sluices in the gates (or walls) of the locks are operated to fill (or empty) the chamber by way of gravity. 

4. When the water level in the lock is the same as the next portion of the canal, the gates are opened, and the vessel continues.

The locks allow boats to negotiate changes in water levels without having to portage around falls and shot rapids. The waterway raises boats nearly 600 feet from Trenton to the summit of the system near mile 157 at Balsam Lake and then lowers the 263 feet to Georgian Bay.

Lock chambers

Each travel day we transit through locks, many days 5 or 6 and some just one. The locks are fascinating, historical, and sometimes a bit of a challenge (our egos have been bruised in a few). Many are still hand cranked by the Parks Canada lock staff. Several are just downright incredible. If you can enter the chamber on arrival, locking through takes about 30 minutes. If you get behind another group of boats or the lock staff is doing a reset of the system (managing water flow at the dams), it can be an hour or two wait. We will be lifted or lowered from 3.5 feet to 58 feet and everywhere in between along the TSW.

There are marinas along the way, though scarcer than in other waters we have traveled and few available to moor the larger loop boats. Most cater to small craft local boating community. Lock walls are our preferred overnight accommodation with easy access to town or the serenity of the nature in the remote locations. Most have washrooms, picnic tables, firepits, allow tent camping, and are in a park like setting. The perfect easy overnight accommodations. When arriving at a lock, one proceeds to the blue line. A painted blue lock wall. This indicates to the lock staff you are wanting to lock through. Parks Canada does not use radios. You tie up at the blue line and if the staff doesn’t see you, you can walk up to the lock and let them know you are waiting or sound your horn three times to signal. Some you get a red or green light on the outside of the lock chamber. It is a bit of an old school process.

Lock Signals

Our first 17 days and 33 locks on the Trent Severn Waterway are chronicled here:

Day 1 – transited 6 locks from Trenton to Frankford in 5.5 hours and cruised 8 miles

We traveled with Escapade as Live the Dash stayed in Trenton waiting on the arrival of friends from Minnesota. The locks were easier (calmer and smoother) than the Erie and Oswego Canals and the lock staff much more engaging and enjoyable. There were other boats in the system locking through ahead of us so the day drug on. We enjoyed the small canal traversing through Ontario. Our stop in Frankford would be the first village along the way. Not much in the way of a village, though we did frequent a restaurant and the park at the dam. With our extra day, we got the bikes out and rode the area. We would say goodbye to Escapade on the second day and wait for the arrival of Live the Dash.

Our first day on the Trent

The foot traffic at this lock was very active. To one side was a large neighborhood and many walked their pups to the lock across the wall bridge and onto the park area. On the other side was a small campground and swimming hole on the river, which the Dash kids took advantage of. While a bit remote, we never felt isolated. Everything is accessible, very casual, and park friendly.

Frankford locak wall, Parks Canada director Chad helping tie us up on his visit to the lock

We are very surprised by the lack of security or safety barriers surrounding the Canadian locks and dams. There is full access to both, one can walk out on top of the dams, lock gates that you can walk across at any time, and no barriers to the lock chambers. Because of the access and the park like settings at the locks, they are very busy with walkers, including many pups, and bicycles. We love seeing the locals enjoy their treasured parks.

We returned to the lock as Live the Dash was approaching the gates, the lock staff allowed our own captain to hand crank the lock doors open for them.

Dave opening gates to lock for Live the Dash

Day 3 – transited 6 locks from Frankford to Campbellford in 5.5 hours and cruised 23 miles

Our last two locks of the day were Ranney Falls, a double lock chamber, lifting us 48 feet in all. We entered the first chamber with the huge lock doors that would be our back lock doors in the next chamber. Rising 24 feet, the doors opened, and we moved 100 feet forward, and they lifted us another 24 in the second chamber. The spray from the front lock doors swamped the front of the boat and ran down the gunnels. We were so lucky Tasha closed the front hatch just as we approached. It would have been gallons of water on the front berth.

Ranney Falls double lock

The suspension bridge over the Ranney Falls was seen as we entered the lock, we would ride our bikes back to investigate. As we cruised the narrow channel into Campbellford, the canal was lined with tens of classic cars and a band playing. It was quite the memorable entrance. We tied up on a city wall for three nights and had power and water, welcome amenities in the heat. The Escapade crew was on the town wall to welcome us to Campbellford.

Campbellford

Across the river was the statue of the giant Toonie, the Canadian $2 coin. Brent Townsend, who created the design, did so in Campbellford, thus the 27 foot statue placed there. very remote.

We got our bikes out and ventured out with the kids on Live the Dash. Taking the bridge across the river to the big park by the Toonie and then we followed the path along the river to the Ranney Falls locks we entered the day prior. Two looper boats were coming through when we arrived so we hung out to watch the process from a different perspective. The dock master allowed Lauren and Reed to run the controls to open and shut the gates. That was a cool experience. We then headed to the suspension bridge out over the falls with a beautiful view.

Our adventure with the Live the Dash kids

We took the path on the other side of the river back to the boat with plans to head out at lunch time again with Lauren and Reed.  Then we lost power, the whole town, then we found out the whole region. A substation was hit by a car. Locks 10 – 17 were without power. Some boaters were in the locks when the power went out. We talked with one lock master who said Parks Canada maintenance had to come with generators and lawn mower engines to release the water and crank the hydraulic doors open. We may have missed lunch out but happy we weren’t stuck in a lock in the heat.

Day 6 – transited 6 locks from Frankford to Hastings in 5.5 hours and cruised 20 miles

This was a basic wall in very quiet village. We made the short walk to down with the crews of Live the Dash and Surface Interval who we had just met in Campbellford for dinner. It’s always nice to share tales of this wonderful adventure. A fried feast of fish and chips at the only restaurant in town was tried by most before retiring back to the boat and awaiting the remnants of hurricane Beryl to move through. The only thing this town had going on was a beer store just feet away from the wall. With the LCBO (Liquor Control Board of Ontario – and the only place you can buy liquor from) on strike since our arrival in Canada, the beer store can be a welcomed sight.

Oh no! LCBO closed, beer store open

The following days trip would be the most relaxed thus far. Thirty eight miles and only one lock. With the lock being at the end of our journey, we were free to leave early not having to time our first locking with locks opening time of 9 am. Part of this journey would be across Rice Lake, a larger body of water than we had been on yet on the TSW.

Day 7 – transited 1 lock from Hastings to Scotts Mill in just over 4 hours and cruised 37 miles

With Beryl making its presence known early morning, we stayed and waited for the majority of the rain to pass. We got a little wet with our 10:45 am departure getting lines off the wall, but the winds and rain were less than predicted and it was a decent cruise across the lake and back into cottage country, and the winding waterway through beautiful green grasses, trees and waterfowl. This was some of our first signs of community and cottages along the TSW. So much of what we have traversed prior was countryside, trees, fields, and a scattering of cottages.

Rainy day travels and sights along the way

We arrived at our one and only lock of the day Scotts Mills, at 3:45 pm. We locked through and took a spot on the upper wall. This lock was just south of Peterborough, the largest city on the Trent Severn and our first of three nights in the Peterborough area. The lock was tucked into a quiet neighborhood mostly residential. We enjoyed a quiet rainy night on the lock wall by the dam, with the heavy rains the dam water was running through the rapids fiercely, a lullaby for us who love the water, singing us to sleep.

A dam at every lock

Day 8 – cruised 1 mile from Scotts Mill to Peterborough Marina in 15 minutes

The following day we logged one mile to the Peterborough Marina and were tied up by 10 am. It was time for laundry, something we don’t do at anchor or a wall due to the amount of water our unit needs. We heard reports from other loopers that the marina area was a bit “gritty” and “rough” and we found that to be true. One of the most desperate areas we have been in on our entire loop. We were glad it was for one night only.

Peterborough

Boating plans must remain flexible. For two days we saw the system deal with additional water from Hurricane Beryl, police shutting down the locks for a good part of a day for a search, and general maintenance of the locks, which led to a back log of boats wanting to transit locks 20 and 21 around the renowned Peterborough lift lock. Just as we were preparing to depart the marina, the staff alerted us of a lock delay and we were able to stay at our dock, plugged in for an additional couple of hours after our intended lock through time. Our final destination was just a mile away at the top of the second lock wall, so it would be any easy day locking through Ashburnham and the through the incredible Peterborough lift lock.

Day 9 – transited 2 locks from Peterborough Marina to Peterborough Lift Lock in just over an hour and a half and cruised 1.5 miles

Peterborough Lift Lock

The Peterborough Lift Lock is the tallest lift lock in the world. It is a hydraulic lift lock was built between 1896 and 1904 and is considered one of the world’s largest concrete structures and an engineering wonder. The lock raises and lowers boats in two water-filled steel chambers 140 feet long holding 273,800 gallons of water. The two 7 ½ foot diameter chamber rams, each with a lifting reach of 65 feet are connected in a closed water hydraulic system. Any movement of one chamber must force an equal and opposite movement of the other chamber.

Inside the lift lock

To transfer boats, the upper chamber is overbalanced by taking on an extra foot of water. When the valve connecting the hydraulic reams is opened, the heavier upper chamber travels downward, forcing the opposite chamber an equal distance upward.

On advice from Karen and Eric on Tropical Horizons, we spent the night at the top of the lift lock with an incredible view and experience. It was fun to watch others lock through during the day and then that night it became our own little village on top of the world. After locktails by the life, it got really dark, quiet, and beautiful, what an amazing experience, one we will forever remember.

Top of the Lock

Now or Never on right, top of the lift lock for the night

Just days after we left Peterborough, Parks Canada held the annual Lock and Paddle Event. Over 400 kayaks and 600 paddlers joined the festivities and paddled and locked through at Peterborough.

2024 Lock and Paddle

Day 10 -transited 5 locks from Peterborough to Lakefield in 3.5 hours and cruised 8.5 miles

We experienced a tough day moving from Peterborough to Lakefield, only 8.5 miles and 3.5 hours, but the hot sun beating down on us and locking through with several other boats made it difficult. The other boats added to the stress of getting in and out of the locks and keeping a steady hold in the lock as to not start a round of bumper cars in the lock.

Full locks

The locks were created a bit different than our 21 locks prior. Rather than water entering the lock through pipes/tunnels under out boats this water shot out at the bottom of the front gates pushing on the bow of the boats and pulling them off the wall. The water was rapid and strong as extra water is still flushing through the system from Hurricane Beryl. We will have a few more days of very strong waters adding havoc to our travels.

Looper boats at Lakefield

We arrived at Lakefield, thankful the lock wall was empty as power was available on this hot day and hot overnight. Both crews were spent. We took advantage of the great park setting and cooked out and sat at the picnic table by the boat. Summer at its best!

Lakefield

Thoroughly enjoying our evening (seems to happen about every night), we decided to stay a second night. We love that most of the time we can be flexible in our travels. We have a family wedding to get home to in a couple of weeks, so we are more limited than we have been our whole trip, but we have time to stay.

As we sat in our beautiful bubble, isolated away from the crazy world, one social media post, brought us back to the reality of our world and it returned loud and clear. It was saddening to learn that someone would attempt to take the life of a former President of the United States. Hate, Evil, and divisiveness is alive and well, not only in our country but the world. A wonderful evening turned sour in an instant.

Day 12 – transited 2 locks from Lakefield to Lovesick in 4.5 hours and cruised 16 miles

Sights along the way including the Church on a Rock – service each Sunday – arrive by boat

We got in early after a quick stop at Young’s Point for the always fun pump out.  

Our buddy boat Live the Dash wanting to know wore / did it best?

It was very quiet and still as we tied up at the bottom of the lock wall. Walking to the top, we found a different scenario with the winds were blowing and the waters choppy.  We were happy for our calm waters on this island Oasis. Lovesick is the only lock on an island where the lock staff arrive and depart by boat each day. We went and checked out the Red Neck Hot Tub, built near the falls by surrounding an area with granite rocks. No hot water but a great place to get in and cool off in the clear, clean waters. The views from this Island are incredible. There are not many cottages near and it’s a very quiet, peaceful, a beautiful place. Setting up camp, cooking out, and enjoying the yard and picnic table, we were all in heaven and didn’t want to leave.

Lovesick Lock – loved this spot!

Day 13 – transited 1 lock at Lovesick from bottom of lock wall to top

We loved Lovesick so much, we stayed a second day and went up top of the wall to change our view and this would allow us to head out earlier than the 9:00 lock opening time. Again, magical. We placed a picnic table on the lock wall furthest out and spent our day right on the water – half the table was on the edge of the wall and all had killer views. Lauren and Reed picked wildflowers in the yard to adorn our table for dinner and swam by the boats all afternoon in the crisp, cool, clear water. They also troubleshooted a boat issue in the water.

Lovesick Lock

Probably most magical of all was after closing time, Lauren and Reed swam in the lock, their own pool of sorts while the sun went down. Both nights it was just us and one other boat on this incredible island, away from the world, the lights, the sounds, and the worries. One with nature.

Day 14 – transited 1 lock from Lovesick to Buckhorn in 2.5 hours and cruised 7 miles

The next three lock wall grabs were going to be competitive, like make a game plan competitive. All were active small tourist towns with restaurants, shops, groceries, and power. Power is one thing most don’t have so these are coveted spots. Lock walls are all first come. Not only do loopers enjoy these walls but many locals as well who traverse the waterway over the summer.

Being mid-week, we didn’t anticipate any issue getting a space, however upon our arrival and through the lock to the upside it was fairly full, but we had heard from the lock master that many would be heading out soon. We took the opportunity to go one mile into the lake and fuel up with some of the lowest diesel prices we’ve heard about so we would be ready to roll in the morning. Diesel was $1.87 per liter, 3.785 liters per gallon, so $7.08 a gallon. Not a good price in the US but certainly the lowest we’ve seen in Canada.

Buckhorn statue and ice cream

We made it back to the Buckhorn wall just before the lock walls got flooded with boats, what a relief. We were on the wall with power and to celebrate we went out for lunch. We ate at Main Street Bar and Grill with a patio that backed up to the canal and lock wall. It surprised us with some of the best wings the captain has had, good service, and a great view. We checked out the other restaurant in town, a Chinese restaurant called the Cody Inn, that should have warned us, it was some of the worst Chinese food we have ever had. To lessen our disappointment, we stopped for Kawartha Dairy ice cream on the way back, something one has to indulge in while here as it is made in the area and very good. Having been to just about all the establishments in Buckhorn, with lunch, dinner, and dessert, we planned to depart in the morning and were trusting our luck to get us a space in Bobcaygeon, known to be the most popular lock on the waterway.

Day 15 – transited 1 lock from Buckhorn to Bobcaygeon just under 3 hours and cruised 17 miles

We left at 7:30 am for the 17 mile voyage arriving at the lock just after it opened. It was a Thursday, and we were hopeful some boats would be leaving for the day. Most didn’t. There were two slips open as we came up the lock, our buddy boat Live the Dash squeezed into one and us the other. We were on the wall but weren’t the winners of power this day. Luckily the nights have cooled, and it is pleasant in the boat without air. We have two inverters that run our refrigerators, ice maker, a bank of lights and outlets, all of our critical systems, and our generator for full power when needed. Thankful for a spot in this bustling little town. Bobcaygeon by far was the busiest place we had been along the Trent except for Peterborough which is a city of 84,000 people.

Bobcaygeon concert and looper dinner

Tasha shopped in Bobcaygeon at the infamous Bigley’s, known for its varied clothing lines, home wares, and its HUGE selection of shoes, over 40,000 in stock. Tasha bought only 1 pair. A community concert on the lawn right off the stern of the boat made a nice evening as we strategized our next move to Fenelon Falls. There would be a bass tournament in Bobcaygeon for the weekend and we didn’t want to get stuck in all the fanfare and more importantly the crowded waterway and wakes.

Day 17- transited 1 lock from Bobcaygeon to Fenelon Falls in 2.5 hours and cruised 15 miles

With the looper community having a big showing in Bobcaygeon, we adjusted our leave time earlier than our prior voyage. We left at 7 am and still two looper boats had a jump on us and there were several behind us. The cruise was fairly easy, 15 miles and no locks until we got to Fenelon Falls, we just had to dodge the huge granite rock and the a few shallow passageways. We arrived to a full blue line and the captain had to tread water in the ripping current in a small passage way with granite walls. We would be the second lockage through and the 5^th boat to get to the wall from the lower end.

Fenelon Falls, the name sounds like the setting of a Hallmark movie, is a great place to snag the lock wall. They offer power and water for a small charge – about $10 per night. Live the Dash went through the first lockage and snagged a wall, the hustled to get tied up and started working the docks to get other boaters to tighten up a bit to find us room. Once they made room, Jordan had a time of it holding our space, fending off other boats coming from the other end who wanted this coveted last spot.

Fenelon Falls!

We locked through with loopers on a power cat, Now or Never up front starboard side and the cat right behind. All started well with Tasha holding the starboard bow line and Dave the stern. It was a large fill 24 feet and things were good until they weren’t. A little but of wind, a strong undercurrent from the water rushing through the gates, an inattentive first mate gabbing up front, and Dave was holding on for life. The water pushed the boat off the wall from the stern. He held on as long as he could and then ran to the helm, throwing a port line to staff on the way. Tasha finally clued in but a bit too late. Our stern hit to port, our bow pulpit hit starboard and with the help of an attentive lock crew, some engine power, and a lot of Oh, shitz, we got back to starboard to exit the lock. Whew – we now know our boat is longer than the lock is wide. These are the ego busters along the way. Not only did the lock crew witness it, the other looper boat too, but Fenelon Falls in one of the bigger galleries of viewers along the whole Trent. People bring their chairs to the lock and sit in the park to watch the boats come through.

After that side show, we found needed success, our buddy boat was able to keep other boaters at bay, and we grabbed the only spot large enough for Now or Never on the wall. We made it! This was an amazing village with an active waterfront. It was Friday in Fenelon Falls and it was busy, we needed to get started in writing our screen play for Hallmark.

Fenelon Falls

With our first water hookup in quite a while, the captain got busy washing the boat and Tasha tending to our laundry and inside cleaning. How easy it has been to sit back and enjoy the voyage and ignore the chores. Two days turned to three in this bustling village, we loved boat watching over the weekend – Saturday it is non-stop in the locks, houseboat rentals, jet skis, go fast boats, small boats and larger looper boats – they were all in Fenelon Falls. We dined out, went to the museum, walked the village, and relaxed. We even met two goldens named Abby and Grace. A bit of a sign from our Remy, as Remy’s name was Abby Grace when we got her. Having a granddaughter Abby and another Grace, she became Remy. Abby is 8 month old Grace’s mom and she had one other pup, Grace’s sister and her name was Remy. Can’t get a bigger sign that our girl is still cruising with us!

We enjoyed the contrast of the past few days with the remote Lovesick lock and the bustling Fenelon Falls, we loved them both. Unfortunately, we must motor on.

We hope our photos capture the sheer beauty of the TWS. Clear, cool water, evergreens and trees galore, cottages nestled into the granite rock shoreline and islands. We see very few large or mega mansions, so refreshing than the waterline of our America. We’ve been awe struck with the number of cottages flying the Canadian flag high and proud. Nice to see patriotism that isn’t as prevalent along US shoreline. And one other guilty pleasure we’ve indulged in way too many times is a Canadian delicacy, the butter tart. Found in every bakery along the TSW, grocery store, and on menus. Each baker having their own flare to add to the buttery, caramelly, sweet, tiny tart. Some add raisins, some pecans, some change it to fruit tarts. All equally yummy. There is even a butter tart trail along the TSW, much like the Bourbon Trail in our home area. We really need to leave this area!

TSW views

With 155 miles and 32 locks behind us, 85 miles and 11 locks remain on our TSW journey, we are not ready for this to be over. It truly is an incredible waterway with so much beauty and variety, you could spend your whole summer here. Truly an amazing waterway on our Great Loop journey.

Cheers!  David, Tasha,  

                  & Remy forever in our hearts!   –   Loop Dog for 1 year and 3357 miles

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